one hell of a crazy week...

Well, a bunch of crazy things happened this week, one after another, all of which is too mental-breakdown-inducing for my public readership (read: parents). However, I did get a pretty good follow up interview with an activist, and I felt that the talk we had really allowed me to understand the challenges that weren't apparent to me during my first two weeks here.

Today I went to the West Africa AIDS Foundation (WAAF), an NGO that freely provides counseling and services for sex workers and MSM living with HIV/AIDS. I spoke to the director, Eddie Donton, who is such a dedicated and intelligent person. He knew everyone by name at the organization, and all of his staff members and interns were open-minded and thoughtful people. They have students and professionals from abroad who intern for several months at a time, and if I ever come back to Ghana, I would love to help them out and work with them more.

Outside the WAAF office is a small, one room store called The Almond Tree, which sells clothes, handbags, and jewelry made by people living with HIV/AIDS. According to Esther, who co-owns the store with Rebecca, The Almond Tree opened in December of last year and everything they sell is produced through a loan program that allows people living with HIV/AIDS to jump start their lives and re-integrate themselves back into society.

The Almond Tree is open on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, and Esther said that she takes three tro tros to get to the shop on those mornings. On Tuesdays and Thursdays, she goes to the market to buy batik fabrics, tie dyes her own prints, and then sews dresses and hand bags. She told me also that business isn't so great, and that it's always a concern that she won't have enough money at the end of the month to support herself.

Rebecca didn't speak much English, or maybe she was shy, but I learned from Esther that she came to The Almond Tree after her husband died and she needed to make a living for herself. She now uses her sewing skills to support herself. Both Esther and Rebecca took a break from their old fashioned sewing machines, beautiful ancient things that don't use foot pedals but instead have a wheel that you manually wind, and put down their multi-colored cloths to speak with me.

I asked whether they knew each other before opening The Almond Tree.

"No, we did not know each other before," Esther replied. "But we are like sisters now."

Before I left, Esther gave me a beaded anklet. I offered to pay for it, but she told me no.

"I am giving it to you because I like you so much."

I had to tell Esther and Rebecca, though, that I was leaving Accra in a week, and that most likely I wouldn't be back in Ghana for years. Maybe forever. Come to think of it, the whole thought of leaving this wonderful country and never seeing its people and its beauty ever again makes me feel so incredibly sad. I've been here almost a month, which does seems like a long time, but I feel as if I know next to nothing about this place. I'll sorely miss it when I leave in three weeks.

Yes, in spite of the craziness, I'll still miss everything. Even the craziness itself.

Next Wednesday I'm going back to the WAAF to talk to George, who does outreach work with MSM in the community. I'm looking forward to it.

P. S. Thanks to all the anonymous readers and people I don't know in real life who comment on my posts. I appreciate all your thoughts and encouragement!